Clothing , 服装 , fú zhuāng 。服装,是衣服鞋装饰品等的总称,多指衣服。服装的定义为:缝制,穿于人体起保护和装饰作用的产品,又称衣服。
Clothing is a general term for clothes, shoes, accessories, etc., and mostly refers to clothes. Clothing is defined as: products that are sewn and worn on the human body for protection and decoration, also known as clothing.
Skirt , 裙子 , qún zi 。
Pants , 裤子 , kù zi 。
Shirt , 衬衫 , chèn shān 。
Suit , 西装 , xī zhuāng 。
Sportswear , 运动服 , yùn dòng fú 。
Shorts , 短裤 , duǎn kù 。
Sweater , 毛衣 , máo yī 。
Down jacket , 羽绒服 , yǔ róng fú 。
服装在人类社会发展的早期就已出现,当时古人将一些材料做成粗陋的“衣服”,穿在身上。人类最初的衣服多用兽皮,而裹身的最早“织物”是用麻和草等纤维制成。对社会来说,服装已经是遮体、装饰的生活必需品,不仅仅为穿,还是一个身份、一种生活态度、一个展示个人魅力的表现。
中国服装历史
中国服装历史悠久,可追溯到远古时期。在北京周口店猿人洞穴曾发掘出约1.8万年前的骨针。浙江余姚河姆渡新石器时代遗址中,也有管状骨针等物出土。可以推断,这些骨针是当时缝制原始衣服用的。中国人的祖先最初穿的衣服,是用树叶或兽皮连在一起制成的围裙。后来,每个朝代的服饰都有其特点,这和当时农、牧业及纺织生产水平密切相关。春秋战国时期,男女衣着通用上衣和下衣裳相连的“深衣”式。大麻、苎麻和葛织物是广大劳动人民的大宗衣着用料。统治者和贵族大量使用丝织物。部分地区也用毛、羽和木棉纤维纺织织物。汉代,丝、麻纤维的纺绩、织造和印染工艺技术已很发达,染织品有纱、绡、绢、锦、布、帛等,服装用料大大丰富。出土的西汉素纱禅衣仅重49克,可见当时已能用桑蚕丝制成轻薄透明的长衣。隋唐两代,统治者还对服装做出严格的等级规定,使服装成为权力的一种标志。闹米日常衣料广泛使用麻布,裙料一般采用丝绸。随着中外交往增加,服式也互有影响,如团花的服饰是受波斯的影响;僧人则穿着印度式服装“袈裟”。现今日本的和服仍保留着中国唐代的服装风格。唐宋到明代服式多是宽衣大袖,外衣多为长袍。近代,由于纺织工业的发展,可供制做服装的织物品种和数量增加,促进了服装生产。辛亥革命后,特别是五四运动后吸收西方服式特点的中山服、学生服等开始出现。1950年以后,中山服几乎已成为全国普遍流行的服装,袍褂几近消失。随着大量优质面料的出现,服装款式也有发展。现代服装设计已成为工艺美术的一个分支,而服装生产已经实现工业化大批量生产。
“按三代时,衣服之制,其可考见者,虽不一,然除冕服之外,唯玄端(端衣)深衣二者,其用最广。玄端则自天子至士,皆可服之,深衣则自天子至庶人皆可服之……至于深衣,则裁制缝衽,动合礼法,故贱者可服,贵者亦可服,朝廷可服,燕私亦可服,天子服之以养老,诸侯服之以祭膳,卿大夫服之以夕视私,庶人服之以宾祭,盖亦未尝有等级也。端衣不削幅,不邪杀,不圆袂,不继掩,不侈袂。其衡长八尺八寸,每幅长广皆二尺二寸,四角方正,故谓之端。其裳,前三幅,后四幅,要有辟积无数,谓之唯裳。古人有“朝玄端,夕深衣”。
Clothing has appeared in the early stages of the development of human society. At that time, the ancients made some crude “clothes” and wore them on their bodies. The first clothes of mankind were mostly animal skins, and the earliest “fabric” wrapped around the body was made of fibers such as hemp and grass. For society, clothing has become a daily necessity for covering and decoration. It is not only just for wearing, but also an identity, an attitude to life, and a manifestation of personal charm.
The History of Chinese Clothing
Chinese clothing has a long history, dating back to ancient times. A spicule about 18,000 years ago was unearthed in the Ape-Man Cave in Zhoukoudian, Beijing. Tubular spicules and other objects were also unearthed from the Neolithic site in Hemudu, Yuyao, Zhejiang. It can be inferred that these bone needles were used to sew original clothes at that time. The clothes that Chinese ancestors first wore were aprons made of leaves or animal skins. Later, the costumes of each dynasty had its own characteristics, which were closely related to the level of agriculture, animal husbandry and textile production at that time. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, men and women wore a “deep clothes” style in which a general-purpose top and bottom clothes were connected. Hemp, ramie and kudzu fabrics are the bulk of the clothing materials used by the working people. Rulers and nobles used silk fabrics extensively. Some areas also use wool, feather and kapok fiber textile fabrics. In the Han Dynasty, the spinning, weaving, and printing and dyeing techniques of silk and hemp fibers were very developed. The dyed fabrics included yarn, silk, silk, brocade, cloth, silk, etc., and the materials used for clothing were greatly abundant. The unearthed Western Han Dynasty Su yarn Zen clothing weighs only 49 grams, which shows that mulberry silk can be used to make light and transparent long clothing at that time. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the rulers also made strict grade regulations on clothing, making clothing a symbol of power. Naomi uses hemp cloth extensively for daily clothing, and silk for skirts. With the increase in the exchanges between China and foreign countries, the clothing styles also have an influence on each other. For example, Tuanhua’s clothing is influenced by Persia; monks wear Indian-style clothing “cassocks.” Today’s kimono still retains the clothing style of the Tang Dynasty in China. From the Tang to Ming dynasties, the clothing styles were mostly wide-clothes and large-sleeves, and the coats were mostly long robes. In modern times, due to the development of the textile industry, the variety and quantity of fabrics available for making garments have increased, which has promoted garment production. After the Revolution of 1911, especially after the May Fourth Movement, Zhongshan clothing and student clothing that absorbed the characteristics of Western clothing began to appear. After 1950, Zhongshan clothing has almost become a popular clothing nationwide, and gowns have almost disappeared. With the emergence of a large number of high-quality fabrics, clothing styles have also developed. Modern clothing design has become a branch of arts and crafts, and clothing production has achieved industrialized mass production.
“According to the three generations, the clothes can be seen in the system, although they are not the same, but in addition to the Mianfu, only the Xuanduan (Duanyi) deep clothing, which is the most widely used. Xuanduan is from the emperor to the scholar , All can be served, and the deep clothing can be served from the emperor to the common people… As for the deep clothing, sewing and gussets are tailored, and the rules of etiquette are used. Therefore, the cheap can be served, the expensive can be served, and the court can serve. Yan private can also be served. The emperor serves it for the elderly, the princes serve it as a sacrifice meal, the Qing doctor serves it as the evening for selfishness, and the common people serve it as a guest sacrifice, and there is no level of hierarchy. The clothes are not cut, no. Evil killing, not round, not covering, not extravagant. Its length is eight feet and eight inches, and each width is two feet and two inches, and the four corners are square, so it is called the end. His clothes, the first three, the last four , There must be countless collections, so called only clothes. The ancients had “Chao Xuan Duan, Xi Shen Yi”.